The Romance of Chesapeake Shores
Published in Spinsheet - October 2018
It was a warm August afternoon in 1995. Not warm like many late summer days on the Bay, maybe 88? However, in a full black suit, tie, vest, etc. and standing in the sun, it was hot. The night before, Annapolis proper was flooded nearly to the doorsills of Middleton’s Tavern from a hurricane spinning east off the coast. But, Sunday was clear. We stood, South River at our back, along the edge of London Town’s bluff.
London Town has a rather robust history. It was one of only a few ports of entry during the British rule, spanning from the late 1600’s to about the 1770’s. Around the end of this period a regulation was passed requiring each county to have an almshouse (home for the local poor or incapacitated). One hundred and fifty years later my grandparents had a home across the cove within view of the property, during and after the depression. By the late 40’s and early 50’s my father was combing those shorelines and remembers the dinner bell beckoning residence, still serving the local poor and needy. However, after such a long legacy in support to the community it had a transformation. Now, this once epicenter of Bay commerce, trade and community support became non-other than a gardens and historical spot. What better place for two horticulturists / boaters to be married on August 20, the weekend of the great hurricane that almost never happened?
The Chesapeake Bay is strife with history, art and nature. It equally has been cataloged in preserved areas. As those who live here it’s easy to overlook these free-time opportunities. In down town Annapolis the William Paca House and Garden is a great example of such an opportunity. William Paca was one of those who signed the Declaration of Independence and his preserved colonial mansion from the street looks much like the rest of Annapolis. However, go inside, tour the gardens and you have experienced something totally unexpected.
One of my favorite distance races is the Governs Cup. Named after the fact that it races from Maryland’s current capital down to the original capital in St. Mary’s City. But long before I raced that annual overnighter I visited the historic grounds. I walked the paths along the river with my future bride, viewed the Dove and especially remember the Brick Chapel of 1667.
The Eastern Shore is peppered with small gems as well, like the Heritage Museum and Gardens of Dorchester County. So is the Northern Neck of Virginia. I kept my boat down there for years. Every time I walked past the Reedville Fishermen’s Museum I wanted to stay an extra night. They were doing a boat-building workshop one weekend that simply made me green with envy. How many of you have visited Jamestown? Jamestown was found in 1607, 13 years before the pilgrims landed. That’s amazing history that frames our Bay narrative, much like Captain John Smith’s exploration, which is now a National Historic Trail.
Not far from Jamestown we have the 1792 Cape Charles Lighthouse as well as the Old Point Comfort Lighthouse. Old Point is set on the southern edge of the Fort Monroe National Monument open almost every day. In that same area Norfolk her own has a very lovely botanical garden.
We have all celebrated the Bay bounty, mostly in great sailing and classic foods. But, have you enjoyed the many historical sites and gardens along her shores? Most of these can be reached by boat and could create amazing destination trips. Or with winter coming, maybe a land-cruise is in order. What better way to enjoy winter than exploring its historical shores and gardens? Which brings me back to my wedding spot of London Town. If you think touring gardens isn’t a winter event, you haven’t seen the winter Camellias at London Town. They have a selection that will blow your mind. Look for the Camellia, the yellow flowers of the Witch-Hazel or simply the structure of the abundant trees and evergreens that stand out best set into our grey autumn sky’s. To be sure, this has the chance of being more enjoyable then visiting during an August heat despite my own fond memories.